Historical books
Title
Brighton As It Is 1836 - A guide book to fashionable Brighton, published 1836 and containing coloured aquatints and extensive text descriptions of the town's history and attractions.
Author
Wallis's Royal Edition
Contents
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Plate St Nicholas or Old Church WALLIS'S ROYAL EDITION, PATRONIZED BY THE QUEEN. -----¥¥¥¥-------- BRIGHTON AS IT IS, 1836, EXHIBITING ALL THE LATEST IMPROVEMENTS IN THAT FASHIONABLE WATERING PLACE. -----¥¥¥¥-------- PUBLISHED BY THE BOOKSELLERS, BRIGHTON.
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- Ostrea, oyster.
- Mytilus, muscle.
- Solen, razor sheath.
- Turbo, perriwinkle.
- Buccinum, whelk.
- Helix, sea snail.
- Trocus, cone.
- Cardium, cockle.
- Patella, limpet.
- Serpula, pipe shell.
- Pecten, scollop.
- Lepas Verruca, wartformed barnacle.
- Mya Arenaria, sand- gaper.
- Tellina, tellen
- Donax, wedge shell.
- Cypraea Europea, European cowry.
- Trochus, top shell.
- Dentalis, tooth shell, or windpipe.
- Teredo, ship worm and Echinus, sea egg.
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1. Fucus Vesiculosus, or bladder fucus, of an olive colour and useful for many important purposes. The bladders are filled with a mucus highly beneficial when applied to a medicinal use. The whole plant makes an excellent manure; and in the islands of Skye and Jura serves for a winter fodder for cattle. In the Western Islands it is also burned for kelp, or potash, with which glass and porcelain are made. 2. Fucus Serratas, or sea wrack, which produces it; seeds in July and August. It consists of a flat radical dichotomous leaf, about two feet long, having a flat stalk or rib divided like the leaf, and running in the middle of it through all its various ramifications. It is not applied to any other purpose than covering fish over, in order to keep them alive and moist. 3. Fucus Plicatus, or matted fucus, resembling what anglers call Indian grass in colour and substance, and generally from three to six inches long. 4. Fucus Saccharinus, or sea belt. The substance of this is cartilaginous and leathern, and the leaf quite ribless. It is single, simple, linear, and elliptic, fringed or puckered at the edge, and from two to ten feet in length. The root is attached to the stones like claws. The inhabitants of Iceland make a kind of pottage of this fucus, boiling it in milk, and eating it with a spoon. They also soak it in fresh water, dry it in the sun and then lay it up in wooden vessels, where, in a short time, it is covered with a white efflorescence of a
5. The next species is the Fucus Plocamium, or pectinated fucus; of a beautiful bright red or purple colour, except when dry and bleached, when it is white, yellow, or variegated. The fructifications are minute, spherical, capsules, or smooth dark red globules on the sides of the branches, some few of them supported on short foot stalks: this is the sort most admired by ladies who are fond of pictures composed of marine vegetables. 6. Fucus Filum, or thread fucus, found on the sea rocks, and waving under the water like long strings. It consists only of a simple unbranched naked cylindrical stalk three or four yards long, from the size of a large fiddle string to that of a thick packing cord: when recent, it is nearly black; but when dried, yellow or white, smooth on the outside, full of mucus within, and intercepted by transverse cells visible only when the plant is held between the eye and the light; the stalks skinned and twisted when half dry, may be made into a tough species of cord. To these may be added the corallines, a numerous family, which, though commonly supposed to be vegetables, are really animal productions, each branch being in fact an insect town. They are of various colours, as white, purple, olive-green, &c: some, as
Among the subjects of curiosity occasionally met with, are the asterias or star fish, of various sizes, with five arms furnished with tentaculæ, and having its mouth in the centre; thousands of sand hoppers, like small shrimps; sea anemones or animal flowers, with their beautifully tinted arms like leaves of various dyes; the sea mouse, (nereis gigantea,) a most singular animal with tufts of hair on the sides, of a green colour, brilliant as the feather of the peacock; the sea nettle, resembling a lump of jelly, and about the size of a common tea saucer; that gigantic polypus, the sepia or cuttle fish; the spawn of the whelk enclosed in numerous white semi-transparent vesicles, and congregated into clusters, resembling the fading blossoms of the guelder rose; the spawn of the cat fish of an oblong shape, as if enclosed in a brown leathern case. Another common but very curious marine animal, is the hermit crab, which, in shape, resembles a lobster, but has only its head and claws covered with a shell, the body being soft, and entirely unprotected. To remedy this inconvenience, the hermit crab seizes upon the unoccupied shell of some whelk, or other univalve, and projecting its eyes and armed forceps from the mouth, seizes upon its tiny prey without being itself exposed to a retaliatory attack. As it increases in size it changes its habitation for a larger. There is yet
Many of the vessels which supply the town with coal discharge their cargoes upon the beach, and it affords a busy scene when the traders' carts struggle to and fro over the loose stones, and are ranged under the sides of the vessels to receive their loads. The shore, however, is dangerous, and wrecks are by no means unfrequent: and when the south-west winds blow hard, although the beach is sufficiently steep to allow a vessel to float with the high tide, yet is it unable to get out to sea, and is often dashed to pieces by the waves. THE RACE COURSE Is on the summit of the Downs, to the North and North-East of Brighton, on one of the loftiest eminences in the vicinity of the place. It commands an extensive view of the ocean, the town, and the adjacent country; the fine air coming from the sea is of uncommon purity and salubrity.
The race-stand commands a full view of the whole course, and at the time of the races, (generally the three last days in July,) is filled with a brilliant assemblage of beauty and fashion, and the whole place is gaily crowded with the inhabitants and visitors of the town. To the botanist, the Downs will afford a never-failing field of enquiry; many rare and peculiar productions of vegetable nature being here indigenous. As specimens the following may be selected: Anchusa sempervirens, evergreen alkanet, (on sunny banks.) Bupleurum rotundifolium, thorowax, (on rocks.) Bupleurum tenuissimum, slender thorowax, (marshy shore.) Campanula hederacea, ivy-leaved campanula, (sides of Downs.) Centaurea solsticialis, St. Barnaby's star thistle. Chenopodium olidium, stinking orach, (various.) Chironia pulchella dwarf centaury, (on Downs.) Crambe maritime, sea hale, (chalk cliffs.) Cynosurus echinatus, rough dog's-tail grass.
Iris fætidissima, stinking iris, (various.) Mentha rotundifolia, round-leaved aunt, (various.) Menyanthes nymphaloides, fringed buck-bean, (in ditches .) Ophrys monorchis, musk ophrys, (hill sides.) Orchis ustulata, dwarf orchis, (on Downs.) Phytenma orbiculare , round-headed rampion , ( various.) Ruppia maritima,, sea ruppia, (beach.) Salicornia, samphire, (cliffs.) Thesium linophyllum, bastard toad-flax, (on hills.) Turrius hirsute, hairy tower mustard, (on Downs.) Vycia Bythinica, rough podded vetch, (on cliffs.) Nor is it the botanist alone to whom the Downs present a never-failing field of enquiry. Upon their summits the antiquarian may roam among the verdant relics of past generations, and indulge in all the conjectures and recollections, which the surviving labours of departed age are calculated to inspire. Here, where once resounded the busy hum of labouring thousands, employed in raising the mounds and entrenchments which war "horrid war" demanded, is now to be heard nothing but the song of the soaring lark, as she trills her joyful lag of gratitude and praise. Here, where once roamed the fierce unconquered Celt, amid the clash of steel, and the neighing of the steed which' harnessed to the scythe-armed chariot, waited in savage suspense the shock of war, is now only to be seen the peaceful shepherd watching his fleecy charge, or idly gazing at the shadows of the passing clouds: while that great deep beneath, whose bosom was once
On the summit of the race hill was. formerly a signal-tower, but it has since been destroyed. Hollingbury Hill, which is situated to the North of the town may here be noticed as containing farther remains of an ancient entrenchment. It is here that three tumili have been discovered, as well as Roman coins from Antoninus Pius to Philip, " during which tract of time Britain was probably a Roman province, says Dr. Rhellan, who studies to prove that the fortifications were constructed upon Roman principles. HUNTING May be enjoyed in the season with stag hounds, harriers, and fox hounds. They frequently throw off at the race hill. Subscribers to the harriers pay, one shilling in the field, and non-subscribers two shillings and sixpence. KEMP TOWN Is situated to the Eastward of Brighton, at a place called Black Rock. The whole has a Southern aspect, and includes a square larger than Grosvenor-square, London, opening from the centre of a crescent, whose span (eight hundred feet) is at least two hundred feet greater than the celebrated Royal Crescent at Bath, and terminated at both extremities by a wing of three hundred and fifty feet. The fronts of the houses are
DISTRICT OF BRUNSWICK TERRACE AND SQUARE Is situated at the Western extremity of Brighton, in the adjoining parish of Hove. The site of this grand continuation of the town, which ranks among the most favoured building speculations in Great Britain, occupies an area of thirty-five acres, extending one thousand six hundred and fifty feet from East to West, and thirteen hundred feet from North to South; abutting on the East on the Western boundary of Brighton parish; on the South, on the sea; on the West and North, on the estate of T. S. M. Goldsmid, Esq. The plan comprises Brunswick Terrace, Brunswick Square, Brunswick Place, Waterloo Street, Market Street, Brunswick Market, the Wick Road, and the New Western Road Brunswick Terrace consists of forty-two splendid houses, in four divisions, all fronting the sea; the first containing six houses, the two next each thirteen, and the fourth division ten. These houses have generally twenty-five feet frontage, from forty to forty-five feet of depth, exclusive of external domestic offices, with
An act of Parliament has been passed, appointing twenty-one Commissioners to regulate the local affairs of the district. ADELAIDE CRESCENT Is named after our benevolent Queen, and, with its Terrace, proves one of the handsomest ornaments to this imposing part of the town. PUBLIC LIBRARIES, BOOKSELLERS AND STATIONERS. Desirous of avoiding undue preference where all are excellent, although differing in their attractions according to their local situations, and the varied inclinations of their frequenters, these establishments are here arranged in ALPHABETICAL ORDER. It may, however, be premised, that their proprietors are all Booksellers as well as Stationers, and that at any of them every newly published work may be obtained on the same terms as in London.
LARGE'S LIBRARY |
SINGLE PERSON.
One Week ........£0 3 6 Three Months .......£1 0 0
Fortnight ........0 5 0 Six Months ..........1 15 0
One Month ........0 8 0 One Year ............2 2 0
FAMILY SUBSCRIPTION.
One Week ........£0 5 0 Three Months .......£1 6 0
Fortnight ........0 8 0 Six Months ..........1 18 0
One Month ........0 12 0 One Year ............3 3 0
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LODER'S LIBRARY, No. 154, North-street, is an old, and very capital concern, embracing above twenty thousands volumes in every branch of science. Hither may the student resort, secure from the interruptions of the giddy and the gay, to pursue with new ardour his favourite and soul-elevating pursuit; while the mere idler may gratify himself by an occasional peep at the newspapers and magazines, of which a general assortment will be found in the adjoining reading-room, where charts and plans are provided for the convenience of reference. Subscriptions, 1l. 6s.. per Annum, and 7s. per Month; or 2s. 6d. per Week |
FAMILY SUBSCRIPTIONS.
Annual ............£2 10 0 Two Months ........ £0 15 0
Six Months .........1 10 0 One Month ...........0 10 0
Three Months ...... 1 0 0 Fortnight ...........0 7 0
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THE ROYAL MARINE LIBRARY, On the Marine Parade, is well supplied with every
MESSRS. WRIGHT AND SON'S ROYAL COLONADE LIBRARY, MUSIC SALOON, AND READING ROOMS. This establishment is situated in North-street, at the corner of the New Road, and contains between seven and eight thousand volumes of History, Biography, Novels, French and Italian, and all the best Modern Publications. The Reading Room is frequented both by Ladies and Gentlemen, and is daily supplied with a profusion of London morning and evening papers, besides the French and weekly English journals, magazines, reviews, and general popular periodicals. The terms of subscription are - |
ONE PERSON.
Annual .............£1 6 0 Two Months ...........£0 11 0
Half- yearly ........0 18 0 One Month ............ 0 7 0
Quarterly ...........0 14 0 Fortnight ........... 0 4 0
TWO PERSONS.
Annual .............£2 2 0 Two Months ...........£0 16 0
Half- yearly.........1 10 0 One month .............0 11 0
Quarterly ...........1 1 0 Fortnight .............0 7 0
FAMILY SUBSCRIPTION.
Annual .............£3 3 0 Two Month ............£1 1 0
Half-yearly .........2 2 0 One Month .............0 16 0
Quarterly............1 10 0 Fortnight .............0 11 0
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The above terms include the advantages of the Library and
At Messrs. Wright and Son's establishment will also be found a superior selection of harps, piano-fortes, and every other musical instrument, for hire by the year month, or week, on reasonable terms. Messrs. Wright and Son have lately received an express command from Their Majesties, to hold the appointment of bookseller and stationers to the household at Brighton. This establishment is particularly patronized and frequented by the army, navy, and clergy. MESSRS. WRIGHT AND SON'S ROYAL ESPLANADE CIRCULATING LIBRARY, READING ROOM, AND MUSIC SALOON, (Corner of Cannon-place,) 62 King's Road, is an establishment well worthy the distinguished patronage it receives from all the Nobility and Gentry, resident and visitors of the Western part of Brighton. The library is fitted up in a pleasing and attractive style and the situation is one of the most delightful in the town, being directly facing the new and attractive Esplanade, and commanding one of the finest sea views. A very superior Reading Room is attached, and is fitted up in a commodious and elegant style. All the London papers, together with the weekly and provincial, and the French Journals, are also taken in here for the accommodation of subscribers, and the Hampshire Telegraph for the use of Navy officers. No difficulty will be found in obtaining all the newest works, which (as at the Colonnade Library) are supplied in large quantities, immediately on publication. The terms are : |
Annual .............£1 6 O .......Two Months .......£0 11 0 Half yearly .........0 18 O .......One Month .........0 7 0 Quarterly ...........0 14 0........Fortnight .........0 4 0 |
Terms for combining the above establishment and Messrs. Wright and Son's Royal Colonnade Reading Rooms -
Annual .............£2 2 0 ......Two Months ........£0 16 0 Half-yearly .........1 10 0 ......One Month ..........0 11 0 Quarterly ...........1 1 0 ......Fortnight ..........0 7 0 And a proportionate scale for Family or season subscriptions. |
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ST. JAMES'S LIBRARY, Established in 1827, and conducted by Mr. Brewer, is liberally supplied with English and Foreign Literature. SUSSEX SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTION, AND MANTELLIAN MUSEUM. This establishment is supported by subscriptions, and is intended to combine a Library, Reading Room, Museum, and the delivery of Lectures on subjects of Science. The Earl of Egremont has munificently presented a donation of One Thousand Pounds towards it. Ladies as well as gentlemen, subscribing £1. and upwards per Annum, become members and will be entitled to privileges corresponding with the amount of their subscription. There are other Libraries on a smaller scale, Leppard, East-street; Sawyer, Middle-street; Spicer, Ship street; E. Taylor, Western-road; also Mrs. Searle, for the loan of Religious Books, King's-road.
BOOKSELLERS AND STATIONERS, Not keeping Circulating Libraries.Andrews, St. James's Street; Baldey St. James's
Are situated in Church-street, containing spacious apartments, each 75 feet long and 35 wide, for the instruction of girls and boys; and beneath them is the Book Depository of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge.
SCHOOLS FOR YOUNG LADIES & GENTLEMEN. These Schools embrace every branch of polite and
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Miss Chandler, 16, Marine-sq. Mrs. Percy, Brunswick-square Miss Ravenscroft 1 Ditto Miss McKeene, Crescent-house, Miss Morrison, 1 Burlington-st. Marine-parade Miss Poggi, Brunswick terrace Mrs. Irish and Miss Kidd, Zion- Miss Bourne, Oriental-place house, Church-hill Miss Wardell, Regency square Rev. Doctor Everard, Wick house Miss Boutein, New Steyne Rev. Mr. Fennell, Temple Misses Miller, Oriental-place Mr. Schofield, 21 Cannon-place Mrs Annan, Cannon-place Mr. Allfree, Glos'ter-place Miss Mitchell, 9, Dorset-gardens Mr. Demster, Marlbro' place Miss Green, Brunswick-square Mr. Cooke, Devonshire place Madame Lofaudeux, Ditto Rev. Doctor Proctor, Chichester- Misses Phipps, 3, Stanhope-place house, Kemp-town Mrs. Percy, Cavendish-place Rev. Mr. Edmond, Russel-square Mrs. Fuller, Ship-street Mr. Grix, Marlbro' place Misses Martin, North street Rev. Mr. Butler, Church-hill Mrs. H. Cooper, Adelaide Cre- Mr. Ricard, Montpelier-house scent. |
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THE NEW POLICE Are here established, according to Mr. Peel's act, under the same regulations as in London.
STEAM PACKETS. Steam Packets start from the Chain Pier to Dieppe twice a week during April, May, August, and September and three times a week during June and July; but they seldom ply in winter. The office is No. 62, Ship-street, where places may be insured and passports obtained from the Agent, Mr. Black. The distance is twenty-seven leagues; it is generally performed in ten hours, and even under the most unfavorable circumstances rarely exceeds twelve. The packets themselves present every accommodation to render the few hours of
Immediately facing the shore is an elegant building called the Caroline Baths, which was finished in the beginning of the year 1828. The bathing machines, which are not on wheels, are stationed before the building in two divisions, that on the East being allotted to the ladies and that on the West to the gentlemen. The former, when attired in their bathing gowns, are curried into the sea by men appointed for that purpose, and generally remain there a considerable time, continually jumping up and sinking down with each wave in the most original manner! In the evening the gardens belonging to the baths, and the building itself, form the fashionable promenade of the town. The Pier is situated West of the town, and at the East side of the river. When the packets arrive, this place is generally crowded; and the costume of the
No sooner is the vessel alongside the quay, than the Custom-house officers take possession of the gang-way, and scrutinize the passport of every passenger previous to landing. The ordeal is very moderate as regards the gentlemen, but the ladies are examined in an apartment by females appointed by government, the excess of whose tyranny is only to be equalled by its occasionally ludicrous results. The Hotels are spacious and neat, and although mostly conducted on rather different principles from the English, are still very comfortable. The bed-rooms are large, but without carpets, and paved with red tiles, which are kept in a high state of polish. The beds are usually tilled with wool instead of feathers. The houses (excepting the modern buildings) present an unseemly appearance; many being in a decayed state They have very high roofs; indeed so much so, that many contain two or three attic stories, and are finished in a careless and rough style. The two churches are very old buildings, and bear on their exterior evident traces of a popular revolution: the interior, however, of both, is simple and bold. The organs are very handsome, and well toned. It would perhaps be useless to go more into their details every person who reflects upon religious subjects will form his own estimate thereon, and most will duly appreciate the peculiarities of their tenets, as well as their many ostentatious forms and ceremonies of worship. The English Protestant Chapel is a plain building,
The Castle is a massive old building with round turrets and slated roofs: admission to it is only to he obtained by an order from one of the corporation of the town. On the beach are several turf fortifications raised in the time of the late war, on which many cannon at present remain. The trade of Dieppe is considerable, consisting principally in turnery, laces, and toys. It is, however famous for its ivory carving, which is carried to an exquisite state of perfection; large vessels are modelled in a most beautiful manner, the rigging and sails are made of threads and shavings of ivory, and the countenances and attitudes of the various groups of figures are wonderfully expressive. The tonsor who engrosses the principal business of the town is a smart young woman, who takes her customers by the nose in the most tender and lady-like manner imaginable. At Dieppe is the basin, yet unfinished, destined by Buonaparte to receive the fleet of gun-boats which was to sail from that port for the invasion of England Years have since elapsed, the mighty scheme is unaccomplished and over the projector's distant and lonely tomb may be uttered the exclamation of the Prophet this the man that made the earth to tremble, that did shake kingdoms, that made the world as a wilderness and destroyed the cities thereof, that
Diligences to Rouen start several times daily, but the stranger who desires to visit the metropolis of France, must be provided with a farther passport for that city, otherwise he will not be allowed to proceed. The conveyances are now much lighter and more convenient than formerly, and perform the distance of about thirty-six miles in five hours. The view of the town from a neighbouring eminence on the road to Rouen is very beautiful, commanding a fine prospect of the adjacent country, as well as of the expanse of ocean skirting the horizon. The roads about Dieppe are tolerably good; they, are wide and unpaved, and are in many places bordered by apple-trees, which produce in autumn an immense quantity of fruit, which is manufactured into cider. The chateaux, or villas are built near the roads, with high old-fashioned roofs, and in many places surrounded with the formal paraphernalia of ancient gardening, although very many are situated in pleasure-grounds laid out in a most tasteful manner and themselves elegantly decorated. The Norman peasantry are usually agreeable in person, short in stature, and generally quick and shrewd. The women dress in a remarkable, though not altogether unbecoming costume, with extravagantly high caps (like towers of linen) on their heads. But these
The French vehicles are not among the least curious part of continental peculiarities. The Diligences have been imitated in London by the Omnibusses, but the former can only be drawn up very steep hills by the exertion of nine horses. The horses are harnessed in a most irregular manner, and the driver is seated on the near wheel horse, and in this manner drives usually from four to seven horses He places little dependence on his reins, which are made of rope, but encourages his cattle by the most vehement gesticulations. The principal hotels are, The Royale, Taylor's, on the quay; Petit's Hotel de Londres, and Delarue's but for comfort and moderate charges, none are better than Durand's French house, opposite the market-place. The coaches leave Dieppe for Paris every morning, at 5,6, and 7 o'clock; and evening, at 6 and 7; inside 23 francs; rotonde: 18francs; outside, 16 francs: they are generally from 16 to 20 hours on the road. Coach offices are at Petit's Hotel, and Delarue's both on the quay, facing the steam-packets. The Custom-house being near the landing-place, passengers are at once conducted there to be examined. The passports are obtained at a small bureau, about three parts of the way up the Grande Rue. An Englishman of the name of Chapman superintends the clearing of the luggage, for which he expects a trifling gratuity. A table d'hote presents to a stranger a novel and
Those who go to Prance for the purpose of seeing every thing strange, should invariably take up their abode at a French hotel. In rewarding servants, at hotel in France, the best plan when paying your bill, is to add at the bottom, with your pencil servants so much, which is to include them all. One franc and a half, or two francs from travellers who sleep at the house, is as much as is expected for the waiter, chambermaid, and boots. If you are staying any length of time at an hotel, one franc per diem is always expected. |
THE BATTERY
The present Battery was formed after the destruction of the one at the end of East-street. It stands to the south of the King's-road, and has lately been altered,
[Page 56] in order to widen the road, which formerly was very narrow and inconvenient. There are six guns (28-pounders) constantly mounted, and the ammunition is preserved in a building behind Artillery-house.
CUSTOM-HOUSE.
Among the many improvements of Brighton may be mentioned the New Custom-house, which was commenced on the demolition of the old one in 1830. The plan is one which is capable of affording every convenience requisite in such a building. It is situated at the south end of West street.
The regulations of the revenue are in every respect closely attended to, and the marches, as well personal as of boxes and luggage, are very strict.
The duty on bound books, is one shilling and two pence per pound; on unbound books, eleven pence engravings, not coloured, one penny each coloured twopence: all fancy goods fifty per cent.
BARRACKS.
The cavalry barracks are situated about a mile from Brighton, on the Lewes road, and are calculated to contain 626 private soldiers and non-commissioned officers. The south wing contains the officers' apartments, consisting of twenty-two rooms, together with rooms for the servants, and the mess, the barrack-master's office, the riding school, kitchens, &c. The granaries and forage barns form a distinct building in the centre, whilst the north wing is composed of thirty rooms for soldiers, with stables underneath. The military kitchen and other offices are detached, which -adds much to the health and comfort of the men.
[Page 57] The hospital, a neat and commodious building, together with the armourers, smiths, tailors, shoemakers, and saddlers' shops, and the school-room, stand at the northern, and the guard-room and magazine at the southern extremity of the barrack-yard.
The infantry barracks are situated in Church-street, where are accommodations for about 400 men.
BATHS.
The principal bathe in Brighton are Mahomed's Turkish and Indian medicated vapour and shampooing baths, situated at the corner of the Junction Parade: Harrison's baths, nearly adjoining; Lamprell's swimming baths, at the bottom of East-street; Hobden's Artillery bathe, facing the Battery; Wood's warm and

