Historical books

TO HER MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY QUEEN ADELAIDE,

[Dedication Page] Who on her first entrance into Brighton was pleased to honor with her approval a former edition of this little work, and whose truly feminine virtues, while they constitute the chief happiness of her AUGUST CONSORT, command at once the admiration and respect of every loyal Briton, this IMPROVED EDITION

Is most humbly and dutifully DEDICATED by

THE PUBLISHER.

[Thanks Page] This edition is considerably enlarged and improved by copious Extracts, taken, by permission, from a similar Work, the production of Mr J. Taylor, to whom the publisher tenders his best thanks.

BRIGHTON AS IT IS.

[Page 1] BRIGHTON, or BRIGHTHELMSTON, anciently written Brighthelmstun, and in the incorrect language of Domesday, Bristelmestune, seems evidently derived from Brighthelm, the name of some considerable person to whom it belonged, and the Saxon Tun, a town or dwelling. In common with the rest of the county, Brighton experienced, about the middle of the fifth century, the ravages and dominion of Saxon invaders. The second landing of Ella, their chief, but afterwards their king, was no farther from it than Shoreham; and on the division of the conquered country among those martial robbers, it is not unlikely that this place fell to some leader named Brighthelm, whose posterity continued in possession of it till, in their turn, they were despoiled by the Normans. That in the time of the Romans it was a place of some note, there are many reasons to conjecture, among which we may reckon the coins of that nation still frequently found in its vicinity. About the year 1750, an urn was dug up near the town, which contained a thousand denarii of different impresses, down from Antoninus Pius, to the Emperor Philip; and since that time there have been found, in some of

[Page 2] the burgs or barrows to the east of the town, ashes and fragments of human bones, inclosed in urns of Roman manufacture. Brighton having become so considerable as to need the public accommodation of a market, John de Warren, Earl of Surrey, in the year 1313, obtained a charter for holding a weekly market here on Thursday.

About the middle of the fourteenth century, this town received considerable annoyance from the French. Its ships and boats were taken, and its fishery frequently interrupted. Its situation has, indeed, been always exposed to the predatory vigilance and descent of a maritime enemy, from the time of the Saxon and Danish pirates, down to the more formidable annoyance of modern war; and the land-owners and others of the adjacent country, as well as the inhabitants of the sea-coast, were obliged to keep watch and ward whenever there was the least appearance of danger. The watch, called "vgiliæ minutæ", in the king's mandate to the sheriff, was nocturnal, and seldom exacted, unless an immediate descent were apprehended. The ward consisted of men-at arms, and hobilers, or hoblers. The latter were persons who seem to have been bound to perform that service by the nature of their tenure. They were a sort of light cavalry dressed in jackets called hobils, and mounted on fleet horses. The bold stand made against the French who landed at Rottingdean, in 1377, was principally by the watch and wart keepers of this coast, which had been divided into districts, entrusted to the care of some baron, or religious house, by certain commissioners called "Rectores Comitatus."

[Page 3] ln the year 1545, the French again made their appearance on this coast, and on the 19th of July landed near Hove, with an intention to burn Brighton and Shoreham. But the beacons having been fired in time to alarm the country, a force was soon collected on the Downs, sufficient: to intimidate the invaders, who departed without having done any material injury.

The town of Brighton, thus harassed by frequent alarms, and the desultory attacks of an active enemy, resolved to erect fortifications, which might afford them some protection in future. Accordingly, a parcel of land on the cliff, between Black Lion-street and Ship- street, and about two hundred and sixteen yards westward from the lower end of East-street, thirteen feet in length, and sixteen feet in breadth, was granted to the inhabitants of the town, to build thereon a storehouse for armour and ammunition, after wards called the Blockhouse. This parcel, however, was only part of the site of that building; for at a Court Baron held for the manor of Atlyngworth , on the 3rd of January, 1613, the homage presented, that the north side of the said building stood on the demesne lands of that manor. The blockhouse, the walls of which were about eight feet in thickness, and eighteen feet in height, ,was circular, and measured fifty in diameter. Several arched apartments in its thick walls were repositories for the powder and other ammunition for the defence of the town. In front of it, towards the sea, was a little battery, called the Gun-garden, on which were mounted four pieces of large iron ordnance. Adjoining the Blockhouse, on the east, stood the town house, with a dungeon under it for the confinement of

[Page 4] malefactors. From the summit of this building rose a turret, on which the town clock was fixed. At the same time with the Blockhouse, were erected four gates of free stone, three of which were arched, leading from the Cliff to that part of the town which lay under it; viz. The East Gate at the lower end of East-street; the Portal, vulgarly miscalled the Porter's Gate, which was less than any of the others, and stood next the East Gate; the Middle Gate, opposite the end of Middle-street, commonly called the Gate of all Nations; and the West Gate, which stood at the end of West-street. From the East Gate westward, there was, at the same time, a wall built, of about fifteen feet high, and four hundred feet long, where the Cliff was most easy of ascent; and from the termination of that wall, a parapet, three feet high was continued on the verge of the Cliff to the West Gate, with embrasures for cannon. The Blockhouse was built at the expense of the mariners of the town; but the gates and walls seem to have been erected partly, if not wholly, at the expense of Government. The Blockhouse was washed away by the sea on the 19th of November, in the year 1786.

Towards the end of July, in the year 1558, this town was alarmed by the Spanish Armada; and the inhabitants neglected no means in their power to defend themselves and their country from the threatened desolation of a powerful and inveterate enemy. They had then in the town, belonging to Government, six pieces of great iron ordnance, and ten " qualivers," a kind of small cannon. With a determination of the most obstinate resistance, the shores of Sussex, in general, were

[Page 5] ined by the people, when this tremendous armament passed in their view, pursued by the light and expert navy of England: and the event has gloriously exemplified to admiring posterity, the successful energy of patriotism, against the colossal preparations, and unwieldy malice of despots.

There are persons yet living in Brighton, who during the first war with America, saw three French ships of war enter the bay and menace the town. The sheep and cattle were all driven inland, and considerable apprehension was excited in the inhabitants. Nor were their fears without foundation; as the crew of one of these ships, which was afterwards taken and carried into Portsmouth, declared it was their intention to have landed, and pillaged what they could, but that they saw too many soldiers on approaching the coast to render the undertaking prudent, which caused their commanders to put about and stand off.

But there was now a new enemy to contend with. The sea, continually encroaching, had begun to undermine the cliffs, and in the year 1665 a violent tempest swept away twenty-two copyhold houses, besides some quantity of attached land. In the memorable storms of 1703 and 1705 one hundred and thirteen houses more, including an entire street galled South-street, with part of the blockhouse and gates, on the cliff, were destroyed; and in 1761 the continued falls of the cliff having weakened the foundation of this fortification, the inner wall gave way, and the whole was subsequently removed. The inroad of the waves has now been completely stopped by the erection of messy timber framings called groynes, running into the

[Page 6] sea at right angles to the shore, against whose Western sides the beach accumulates, being impeded in its constant Journey from West to East, and thus forming a barrier against further encroachment.

After his defeat at the battle of Worcester, Charles the Second found it necessary to fly to the Continent, and accordingly with much difficulty and danger arrived at Brighton on the 14th of October, 1651, where he was immediately recognized by one Smith, the owner of the inn* where the unfortunate monarch had taken refuge; but Smith was too faithful to betray his Sovereign although a great price had been offered for his capture. He agreed to facilitate his escape, and actually engaged a small vessel commanded by Nicholas Tattersall, in which his Royal guest embarked, and was the next day landed at Fescamp in Normandy .

After the Restoration an annuity of 100L. was granted to Captain Tattersall and his heirs. The descendants of this family still reside in the town, but the pension is discontinued.

It will not be uninteresting in this place to present the reader with a view of Brighton a century ago. It is a letter of the learned W. Clarke, prebend of Chichester, (known by the name of mild Wm. Clarke,) selected from Nichols' Anecdotes:

"July 22, 1736

"We are now sunning ourselves upon the beach at Brighthelmstone, and observing what a tempting figure this island must have made formerly in the eyes of those gentlemen who were pleased

* Now the King's Head, in West street

[Page 7] to civilize and subdue us. The place is really pleasant; I have seen nothing in its way that outdoes it: such a tract of sea, such regions of corn, and such an extent of fine carpet, that gives your eye command of it all. - But then the mischief is, that we have little conversation besides the clamor nauticus, which is here a sort of treble to the splashing of the waves against the cliffs. My morning business is, bathing in the sea, and then buying fish; the evening is, riding out for air, viewing the remains of old Saxon camps, and counting the ships in the road, and the boats that are trawling. Sometimes we give the imagination leave to expatiate a little-fancy that you are coming down, and that we intend to dine one day next week at Dieppe, in Normandy; the price is already fixed, and the wine lodging there tolerably good. But though we build these castles in the air, I assure you we live here almost under ground. I fancy the architects here usually take the altitude of the Inhabitants, and lose not an inch between the head and the ceiling, and then dropping a step or two below the surface, the second story, is finished something under twelve feet. I suppose this was a necessary precaution against storms, that a man should not be blown out of his bed into New England, Barbary, or God knows where. But as the lodgings are low, they are cheap: `we have two parlours, two bed chambers, pantry ' &c. for five shillings per week: and if you really will come down' you need not fear a bed of proper dimensions. And then the coast is safe, the cannons all covered with rust and grass, the ships moored no enemy apprehended. Come and see

" ------------------------- Nec tela timeres
Gallica, nec Pictum tremeres, nec littore toto
Prospiceres dubiis venturum Saxona ventis.''

" My wife does not forget her good wishes and compliments upon this occasion. How would you surprise all your friends to tell them you were just come from France, with a vivacity that every body would believe to be just imported from thence!"

Public attention was first directed to the spot by a treatise of Dr. Russell on the advantages of Sea-bathing, which he successfully recommended in

[Page 8] scrophulous and glandular complaints. It was he, too, who caused the valuable chalybeate spring to the West of the town to be enclosed, prior to the erection of the present building. His successor, Dr. Rhellan, continued to add to the reputation of Brighton by publishing a Natural History of the town in 1761.

We now arrive at a period when the increasing popularity of the place was to receive a new stimulus from the presence of the Prince of Wales, afterwards George the Fourth. His first visit was in the summer of the year 1782, when the Prince resided with his Royal relatives, the late Duke and Duchess of Cumberland. He afterwards usually passed the summer and autumnal months at a mansion on the Steyne, then the property of the Lord of the Manor, which, after it had undergone several alterations, he finally purchased in 1814; and shortly after pulled it down to make room for the present Pavilion.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE TOWN.

FORMERLY the whole town of Brighton was contained between the western boundary of the Steyne and the West-street: to the east of the Steyne there was but one building, a public library; and beyond West-street there were only a few detached cottages, so that in fact the town consisted of but eight principal streets:

North-street, Market-street, East-street, Middle-street, Kent-street, Ship-street, Black-Lion-street and West-street, although in 1760 it contained, besides these, many lanes, and some spaces surrounded with houses, called by the inhabitants squares; but now the

[Page 9] enumeration of all the streets would occupy to large a space for our purpose: some idea, however, of their number may be formed from the extent of the town. The distance from the extremity of Kemptown to that of Brunswick-terrace is two miles and a half, and from the Steyne to the extremity of the parish on the London road is about one mile and a quarter. The most fashionable parts of the town are the cliffs, and the several squares and streets branching, from them, and also what are commonly called the Old Steyne, and the North Steyne, comprising the Pavilion and Grand Parades, as well as Gloucester, Marlborough, and St. George's Places. Some of the houses are on an extensive scale, and finished in an elegant manner; others, though smaller, and less expensively adorned, are nevertheless neat and handsome.

The number of constant inhabitants of Brighton is estimated at about forty thousand, but during the fashionable season the population is nearly doubled.

The conveniences of the place correspond with its magnitude: most of the shops are equal to those of London-the places of amusement are various and select-there is every requisite for bathing; the baths are numerous, the accommodation for visitors is excellent, and many advantages are here to be found, which are wanting in smaller and less frequented watering places.

GOVERNMENT OF THE TOWN.

By an act passed 22nd June, 1825, (6 Geo. IV.) the former acts (13 Geo. III. and 50 Geo. III.) are

[Page 10] repealed and one hundred and fifteen Commissioners are appointed to act for three years, when sixteen are to go out; after which, sixteen are to go out every year. The qualification of a Commissioner consists in the occupation of a tenement, value 501, per annum, and the bona-fide possession of another estate, value 50l. per annum. Or if the house, &c. occupied by him be of the value only of 30l. per an. then the other freehold, copy hold, or leasehold property, must be of the value of 701. per annum. Or he must be in the possession of estates within the parish, value 100l. per annum:, inclusive or exclusive of his own dwelling house.

Any Commissioner neglecting to attend the meetings for six months is disqualified. They meet at the Townhall on the first Wednesday in every month; thirteen to, form a board.

No Commissioner can hold any place of profit, or take any contract under the act; neither can any officer, appointed by them as treasurer, clerk, collector, or surveyor, receive any fee or reward beyond his salary, under a penalty of 201. besides removal from his office.

Books of proceedings are ordered to be kept, and accounts to be published in the Brighton newspapers every six months; such books and accounts to be open to, the inspection of the inhabitants, and a copy must be granted on payment of one shilling for every ninety words.

The property of all the pavements, lamps, posts, and groynes within the limits of the town, is vested in the Commissioners: and they are empowered to punish offenders damaging the same, by fine and imprisonment.

[Page 11] They are enjoined to lay the gas pipes at a distance of at least four feet from the water pipes, and to prevent the escape of gas and contamination of the water.

They are to appoint scavengers, and to see that the beach, sands, streets, drains, and water courses, are kept clear of rubbish and offensive matters, as well as to provide a place for depositing of such matters; and any person offending, by scattering or depositing such elsewhere, shall, for every such offence, forfeit a sum not exceeding 5l. nor less than 5s.

Any noisome or offensive buildings which they may deem a nuisance in the tow, they have power to remove, with or without compensation to the owners. They must provide fire engines, cause the footways to be swept, and the roads and the streets to be watered; and, for the latter purpose, are empowered to levy a rate upon the inhabitants.

They have the regulation of fishing boats, and the erection of capstans and groynes on the beach, as well as the removal of all nuisances and obstruction from the streets, and from the fronts of the houses in the same.

Their duty is to appoint watchmen and beadles, and to punish them for misbehaviour; and also to appoint town criers.

This act regulates the rebuilding of houses and the projection of shop fronts, which shall not exceed ten inches from the line of foundation, in streets above twenty feet. wide. It directs also, that no old building shall be altered, or new building erected, without notice to, the surveyor of the Commissioners; and that no building shall be erected, if adjoining to another,

[Page 12] without a sufficient party wall, or be covered with thatch, within the limits of the town. 'The Commissioners are empowered, by the act, to purchase certain houses and lands, therein described, for the purpose of widening the streets, extending the present market, and erecting a new town-hall, prison, pound, and weighing house; and to pay for the same out of the consolidated rates. The act contains a table of tolls to be taken in the present market, and penalties for evading the same; empowering the Commissioners to make bye laws for its regulation, to let the tolls, and, if in their opinion necessary, to establish other markets for provisions, cattle, corn, and hay. The Commissioners are to appoint a clerk, with weighers and measurers, to each market, paying them such remuneration as they think proper. They are to fix the days for holding the market, and the hours of business therein. It is further enacted, that no traul fish shall be sold (expect in the fishmongers' shops) before six in the morning or after ten in the evening, under a penalty not exceeding 5L. nor less than 10s.

The duty on coal and culm is fixed at three shilling per chaldron; coke, one shilling; and sixpence; cinders, one shilling; and charcoal, one penny per bushel. No ship to leave the port till the same is paid; but the said coals or coke are subject to a drawback if consumed out of the town.

This act establishes regulations for measuring coals; and orders, tickets to be delivered to the buyers. It empowers the Commissioners also to appoint six coal meters for the town.

[Page 13] The Commissioners are to issue licences to the owners of all pleasure boats, bathing machines, and every description of land carriage let for hire; and to make bye laws for regulating the same, enforcing them under a penalty of not less than 10s. nor more than 40s. for each offence. They may also make bye laws; for regulating porters and other persons employed in coach and wagon offices.

The Commissioners may cause bathing houses or sheds to be built on the beach, in front of the town for the accommodation of servants, labourers, and other persons not using machines; and the act declares, that no person shall undress on the beach or bathe in the sea in front of the town, (expect from a bathing machine,) between the hours of eight in the morning and nine in the evening under a penalty of 20s. for each offence.

The bye laws, rules, orders and regulations, made under the authority of this act, are to be printed and distributed from time to time; to be put up in the clerk s office; also to be painted on boards, and affixed in conspicuous places about the town; and inserted at least twice in the newspapers.

Any person obstructing or molesting the Commissioners or their officers in the execution of their duty, shall, on conviction, forfeit not more than 10l. nor less than 40s. for each offence.

No penalties under this act can be recovered unless proceeded for in the course of six months, nor without fourteen days' notice of action.

Persons may appeal from rates and assessments made by virtue of this act, to the Quarter Sessions.

[Page 14] By the 199th and following clauses of the 6 Geo. IV. it is enacted, that the inhabitants of the parish of Brighton in vestry assembled, shall on every Easter Monday, or within fourteen days after, elect thirty substantial and discreet persons to be DIRECTORS AND GUARDIANS OF THE POOR; each of whom is to make oath that he is a housekeeper, paying scot and lot, and occupies a dwelling house of the annual value of 301. in the parish, and that he will not be concerned, directly or indirectly, in any advantage to be derived from any contract entered into during the time he is a Guardian or Director. The high Constable of the hundred, Vicar, Churchwardens, Overseers, and Parish Surgeons, are ex-officio Guardians and Directors subject to the same oath, (except the Surgeons in regard to their employment.)

The Director and Guardians may repair the Poor House, and purchase lands for enlarging the same.

They are to form six Committees, one of which is to meet on each day of the week; five members to form a Board.

The parish accounts are to be passed on the four quarter days of each year, or within twenty-one days after; and are subsequently to be audited by the parishioners, in vestry assembled, within fourteen days after the meetings of the Guardians and Directors

The Directors and Guardians have the appointment of Collectors for the poor's rate, Treasurer, Clerk, Governor, Matron, and Surgeons to the poor; and may take securities, pay salaries, and fill up vacancies at their discretion.

[Page 15] They are to contract for the supply of the Poor, and keep books of their proceedings, to which every parishioner may have free access daily, without fee or reward. Copies and extracts also may be demanded by any parishioner on payment of one shilling for every ninety words.

An ASSISTANT OVERSEER may be elected by the Guardians and Directors, with a salary not exceeding 300l. per annum; and such DEPUTY ASSISTANT OVERSEERS as they think proper, with salaries of not more than 150l. per annum each: who are required to give security, and take an oath for the due performance of their office.

The Assistant Overseer and his Deputy have the whole management of the poor of the parish, subject only to the Directors and Guardians, and not to the Churchwardens and Overseers. They are to collect the poor rates till a Collector is appointed. They are not to furnish or supply for their own profit any article for the use of the poor, under a penalty of 50l.; and they may be dismissed by the Directors for any act of misbehaviour.

The Directors, &c. are to purchase materials for work, and to give rewards and profits, by way of encouragement, to the skilful and industrious poor.

They are to grant certificates of settlement; and for the purpose of enlarging or building poor houses, may borrow money to the amount of 10,000l. on security of the poor rates.

THE ROYAL PALACE.

[Page 16] This unique and splendid edifice is said by some to have been modelled after a Chinese plan brought over by Lord Amherst, while others think the design was suggested by the Kremlin at Moscow, and others again believe it to have originally emanated from the genius of .Mr. Nash the architect. The principal entrance is through a vestibule and hall, on the Western or garden side. The cut prefixed to this head of our work exhibits the front towards the Steyne: No. 1, being the banqueting-room, sixty feet long and forty-two wide. It rises forty feet to the dome, which is thirty feet in diameter and eighty-five in height, having minarets of Bath stone at the four corners of its base. No. 2, is the music-room, a most splendid apartment, forty-two feet square, and having two recesses of ten feet each, in one of which is a superb organ of prodigious powers. Centrally between these, is the rotunda or saloon, No. 3, which forms an oblong of fifty-five feet, having a cornice supported by columns and pilasters. No. 4,

[Page 17] is over the yellow room, fifty-six feet long and twenty wide: and No. 5, is a similar apartment, used as a withdrawing room. The royal bed-room is admirably arranged, having a dressing-room attached, which opens into a delightful bath, furnished with pipes for conveying hot and cold sea-water. The Chinese gallery is behind all these, together with various other apartments of great magnificence; the furniture and decorations of the whole being the workmanship of our own country, and presenting a noble display of native talent.

THE ROYAL STABLING.

To the North of the Elm Grove is situated the Royal Stabling, decidedly the most magnificent pile ever erected for such a purpose in Europe, octagonal without and circular within, receiving light from a glazed dome, whose diameter is only twenty feet less than that of the dome of St. Paul's church in London.

Into the circular area the doors of the various stables open, containing stalls for about sixty horses: above these are numerous apartments for grooms, &c. The way to the latter is from a light gallery, by which the area, two hundred and fifty feet in circumference, or thereabout, is surrounded. The entrance to these stables is from Church-street, through a wide lofty arch into a spacious square court, containing the coach-houses, coach-horse stables, servants' offices, &c. From this, through a similar arch, you reach the circular area, opposite to which is a corresponding arch that opens into the Pavilion grounds. On

[Page 18] the East and West side of the circle there are arches of the same kind also, the one leading to a tennis court, &c. and the other to a riding-house two hundred feet long and fifty broad. These spacious arches at the cardinal points of the compass , are so judiciously contrived for ventilation, that the area and stables are kept cool in the hottest seasons.

New Lodges have been erected at the North and South entrances to the Pavilion; the style of architecture in keeping with the Royal Stables. Also an extensive building, called the Queen's Stables, containing numerous apartments for domestics.

NEW LODGE, CASTLE SQUARE.

Plate

Brighton Chain Pier.

[Page 19] This light and elegant structure was erected after the design and under the superintendance of Captain Brown, R.N. at an expense of 30,000L. It was commenced in October, 1822, and opened to the public in the November of the ensuing year. Its length is 1134 feet, and the promenade is thirteen feet wide, enclosed on each side with a neat iron railing. The four iron towers supporting the chains, are erected on platforms raised on piles driven nearly ten feet into the solid chalk rock, but rising nearly thirteen feet above high-water-mark. These towers are about 200 feet distant from each other. There are two double suspensions chain on the either side of the Pier, each double chain consisting of wrought iron rods or links two inches in diameter, and very ingeniously connected. Those at one end pass into tunnels formed in the cliff, the size of which gradually increases, and are secured to a

[Page 20] plate of iron placed perpendicularly at the North end much larger than the opening of the cylinder. After passing the towers mentioned above, the chains are firmly fixed to the massive timber frame-work of the Pier-head: the archway dividing each of the tower is ten feet wide, and the platform which forms their base extends twelve feet on each side of the promenade. The turrets are fitted up as shops.

The Pier-head is a platform raised on piles: it is paved with Purbeck-stone, and has lately been considerably enlarged. There are several flights of steps descending to a lower platform and to the sea; together with commodious baths in the gallery beneath.

Facing the Pier, on the North, is a building seventy feet by twenty-five, occupied as a French and fancy repository by Mr. Penny; over which is the CAMERA OBSCURA.

The entrance to the Pier is by an Esplanade 416 yards in length, from the commencement at the bottom of the Old Steyne, where the toll-house is situated. A second entrance is by a flight of steps descending from the cliff opposite the New Steyne.

A band is, during the summer months, occasionally stationed at the head of the Pier, which forms one of the most agreeable walks in the town, uniting the advantage of the purest sea-air, with great beauty of situation, and convenience of access. The general view of Brighton from hence is magnificent: the eye catches the whole range of buildings from Brunswick-terrace to Kemp Town, while the coast beyond Beachey Head, on a clear day, may be plainly seen to the East, and the Isle of Wight as distinctly

[Page 21] to the West. This place is usually well attended, and especially at the arrival or departure of the steam-packets.

Admission may at all times be obtained on payment of two pence; and by a recent regulation subscriptions at a reduced rate may be paid by the year or month. The terms of subscription are for each person, yearly ticket 1L; half-yearly, 12s.; and monthly, 5s. Several of the Royal Family have become subscribers. His Majesty, with his accustomed liberality, subscribed twenty, and the Queen ten, pounds.

This celebrated spot was formerly a piece of waste land, and used by the inhabitants, for boat-building, net-making, and as a depository for heavy goods: it has, however, long been surrounded by handsome buildings. About thirty years ago the lawn was divided, levelled, and enclosed, leaving in the middle a passage from North-street and Castle square to St. James's-street. This has since been widened, and a good carriage road made, with handsome side pavements for pedestrians. In the northern enclosure is placed the celebrated BRONZE STATUE of his late Majesty George the Fourth, executed by Chantrey, and erected in the year 1828, the necessary funds amounting to 3000l. having been previously collected by the contributions of the inhabitants and visitors.

The name of the "Steyne" is supposed to he derived from the Roman way called Steyne-street, Stane-street. or Stone-street, which passed through the town of Steyning, and also gave name to that town. Traces of

[Page 22] the road have been occasionally discerned: it was constructed of stones of irregular size, and varied from twenty to thirty feet in width, while in some places it has been found to be about four and a half feet deep.

This name has been given to the new road which forms the connecting link between the Eastern and Western parts of the town. It was constructed in order to prevent the inconvenience and danger which were experienced in passing through Pool-lane. A wall of beach stones and coarse mortar, of ten or twelve feet in thickness, was built on the beach, sweeping round every building, and protected by several large groynes, which had previously been erected, the intervening space being filled in with earth. During its progress the work sustained great damage from the boisterous ocean, but it was finally completed in December, 1829, and on the 3rd of the same month opened to the public, a grand procession having been formed to commemorate the occasion. The road leads to the South of Mahomed's Baths, on the East Cliff, and unites the latter with the Marine Parade, between the Chain Pier toll-house and Albion Hotel, South east of the Steyne.

The several squares in Brighton are Brunswick, Bedford, and Regency Squares, immediately on the West Cliff; Norfolk and Russel Squares, in the vicinity; Marine Square on the Marine Parade, and

[Page 23] Sussex Square at Kemp Town. There are three crescents in the town; one at Kemp Town: a second, the Royal Crescent, on the Marine Parade, and Hanover Crescent facing the Level on the Lewes Road. Besides these, there are several enclosures surrounded with iron railings, and mostly covered with grass plats, through which are gravel walks; while the whole are adorned with shrubs and cowers, tastefully disposed. The regulations of these places differ, but most of them are kept up by subscriptions from the surrounding houses. The principal are the Old Steyne, the North Steyne, the New Steyne, and the Lower Rock Gardens.

Another magnificent Crescent is erected adjoining Brunswick Terrace, called Adelaide Crescent.

Take place on Holy Thursday and September the 4th; and are held in the Cricket-ground, formerly Ireland's Gardens, where are spacious lawns, a large swing, and rooms for refreshments. Here is an excellent Inn, (kept by Mr. Brown, a celebrated cricketer, called the Hanover Arms: also, a large building for Assembly Rooms.

ln the rear of the East part of the town is situated the Park, nearly in a direct line with Rock Gardens, and Egremont-place. It was commenced in the year 1824, and is at present complete in every thing except that which time alone can bring to perfection: the

[Page 24] trees are as yet in their infancy but still, from their present flourishing condition, there is every prospect of their speedily arriving at maturity.

One of the Leading features of this projection, is the German Spa Establishment, where chemicals imitations of the celebrated mineral waters of Germany are prepared in such perfection, as not to be distinguishable either in taste or effect from the original springs. They present to the invalid the waters of Carlsbad, Ems, Marienbad, Auschowitz, Eger, Pyrmont, Spa, Geilnau, Selters, Seidschutz, Pulina.

During the summer months the place is much and fashionably frequented by those anxious to derive benefit from the waters. There are also archery walks. Two villas have been erected in the Park, which with elegance of design, combine all the advantages of rural situation.

The whole is now surrounded by the wall of moderate height, round which a road has been formed. The entrances are opposite Egremont Place and Park Street, both of which open into the Edward Street.

The prices of inscription to the German Spa, are 1L. 1s. weekly.

An account of these waters, with the cures effected by them, has been published by Dr. King, an eminent practitioner, and may be had of Mr. Burge, Stationer, 26, King's Road.

Notice was first drawn to this spring, from the circumstances of its depositing an ochrous sediment in a natural reservoir, into which it flowered. Dr. Russel

[Page 25] was one of the first who turned their attention to it; and, upon analyzing it, he found it to possess a valuable medical property, and accordingly enclosed the reservoir.

A commodious and elegant building, comprising a reading-room and other conveniences, has been recently erected, together with a pretty rustic cottage. It is in a most retired and picturesque place, and is nearly surrounded with trees, which cause it to be much frequented in summer, as well for the beauty of its situation, as for the purpose of drinking the water.

The following analysis is extracted from a treatise by Dr. Marcet, which is full of very interesting information concerning the qualities of the spring: he finds 16 ounces of the water to contain -

Is near the Chalybeate, and is the residence of the Rev. Dr. Everard who, in conjunction with the Rev. Mr. Wagner, Vicar of Brighton, has the issuing of tickets of admission to the Royal Chapel.

[Page 26] Is situated between Wick House and the Church Hill. It was formerly the residence of T. R. Kemp, Esq. M. P. but is now a school, conducted by the Rev. Mr. Fennell.

The principal one is on the Grand Parade, and was formerly a picture gallery. The other is the Albion Bazaar, Grand Junction Parade.

Is situated in the New Road, and under the present manager, Mr. Vining, has undergone a complete renovation, being decorated in a very chaste and elegant style, and warmed with air stoves. It is allowed to be the prettiest Theatre out of London, and very commodious. The performances commence at seven o'clock.

Present a new and very striking feature in the town of Brighton. An elegant and commodious Saloon for public and private balls, concerts, &c. had long been a desideratum, and the spirited undertaking of the proprietors of these rooms will, it is much to be hoped, meet with its justly deserved reward and support. The rooms may be viewed (gratis) by application to either of Messrs. Wright and Son's establishments, where every facility for the Visitors is afforded in a kind and attentive manner.

[Page 27] The grand room has a peculiar advantage for the effect of music, from its extraordinary height and general proportions. The first concert patronized by the Royal Family, was given by Mr. Wright, senior, (an established professor of music,) in February, 1833, when the room displayed an assembly of nearly 600 of the nobility and gentry. The concert afforded was of the first order, and added considerably to the reputation of the proprietors as musical professors. The property has a frontage North, of 124 feet, and the architecture is a fanciful Corinthian. The room itself is 65 feet by 34,5 and 35 feet high, terminating by a coved ceiling. The lighting of the room is effected by two of the most costly chandeliers we have ever beheld, consisting of 45 lights which are intended for gas, but may be used with wax lights.

In addition to balls, concerts, lectures, &c. it is the intention of the proprietors to let the room by the night to those noblemen and families who may be desirous of giving soirees (either de danse or musicale,) and who have not convenience, in their own residences, or are desirous of avoiding the trouble and disarrangements which occur on such occasions. The architect was Mr. H. Wilds.

In conclusion, the female part of the distinguished visitors to this fashionable watering place, will not be slightly gratified by gaining Messrs. Wright's permission to visit this elegant Saloon on Tuesday and Friday mornings, the room being on those days occupied by Mr. Charles Wright, (a justly appreciated professor of dancing,) as an academy for the junior branches of

[Page 28] noblemen and gentlemen's families, residents and visitors of Brighton.

The room is ninety feet in length, and decorated in a most elegant manger. It is lighted with handsome chandeliers, and the large plate-glass facing the entrance reflects the gay scene, and gives the whole a splendid and beautiful effect.

The old poor-house was situated on the spot where the newly-erected market now stance: it had been built in 1733 upon the site of a chapel formerly belonging to a convent of mendicant friars, dedicated to St. Bartholomew, erected by the Prior of St. Pancras, Lewes, who obtained a grant of the ground from the lord of the manor. The chapel, it is supposed, was destroyed by fire when the French pillaged the town in 1513.

But as the population increased, the old building was found insufficient to answer the purposes for which it was intended, and accordingly, in 1821, the present work-house was commenced: it stands on Church-hill, near the parish church of St. Nicholas, on a spot particularly adapted for such an establishment from the airiness of its situation. The house is 191 feet in length, and is divided into four distinct parts, in order to class its inmates in the most regular manner.

The central division consists of an entrance-hall, working room, and committee-room for examination of applicants, the overseers and clerk's office, and the

[Page 29] governor's room, and also proper sleeping apartments. Adjoining to these rooms to the North, are apartments for females, including sick persons, lying-in women, children in the nursery, and all females not capable of executing laborious work.

In the next division of the house, which forms the North wing, are wards for males not capable of doing hard work. These wards are fifty feet in length and twenty-five in depth, and consist of sleeping-rooms, eating-rooms, proper places for the sick, and a school for boys.

The Southern division of the house, adjoining the centre, comprises apartments for males who are able to work: the upper story of which is divided into sleeping-rooms, and the lower stories consist of workrooms, a school-room, and an eating-room.

Each of these divisions opens into a separate yard. That belonging to the South wing contains in it a mill for grinding corn, a manufactory of very excellent whiting, and workshops for dressing flax, carding wool, &c. The flour consumed in the house is ground by the paupers, who also manufacture and make up their own clothing; and prepare for sale, whiting, ropes, cords, door-mats, rugs, sacking of every description, and other articles.

The South wing, which forms the next division, is of the same dimensions as that on the North, and is separated into sleeping-rooms, an eating-room, and a work-room.

Behind the central division, already mentioned, is a lofty kitchen, a wash-house, brew-house, bake-house, and a very spacious laundry, in the fitting up and

[Page 30] furnishing of which, every regard has been paid to the cleanliness, convenience, and comfort of the inmates. There is a garden of about nine acres attached to the Workhouse.

At a short distance from the house an Infirmary has been erected for the reception of the sick paupers.

As has been before stated, the greater part of the inhabitants of Brighton formerly depended for subsistence on the success of their fisheries, but as the town increased in size and importance, these fisheries gradually decreased; and now, though the number of boats has diminished from eighty to fourteen, besides trawl boats, a large quantity of fish is sent immediately on landing, to London.

The chain of nets used for taking mackerel is almost of an incredible length, both as to extent and depth, and thousands of fishes are sometimes captured at a single draught. The portion which is not sent to London is retailed at the fish-market held on the beach, to the South of the Grand Junction Parade, at a price regulated by the success of the voyage. The herring season commences in the middle of October, and the fish may be purchased in the town and neighbourhood at the low rate of six pence per dozen. Soles and whitings are occasionally cheap in proportion, It is not uncommon for the fishermen to find in their nets pilchards, skates, whitings, and occasionally mullets, turbots, and various other kinds of flat fish. The prawns, shrimps, and escalops caught here are of a superior flavour, and particularly the latter, which are in season early in the

[Page 31 ] spring, and though but little known in the metropolis, are really of a most delicate and nutritious quality.

The old building and grounds have been exchanged for a splendid mansion near the Temple, built by a merchant of the town. The garden in front is very tastefully laid out, and the situation very airy.

The old Market-place and Town-hall were, in 1828, pulled down as inconvenient, and a new market was immediately erected and opened in the year 1830. It is erected on the site of the old town-hall. The building is both lofty and spacious, and is in the shape of the letter T. The principal entrances are in East- Black-lion-street, and Market-street, near the cliff; but farther improvements are contemplated in the approach on the side from the sea. Its situation in the centre of the town, and the unconfined atmosphere of the place, as well as the price of provisions there disposed of, render it a constant place of resort to those who superintendent the business of house-keeping.

The market is well supplied with every species of poultry, meat, fish, and vegetables which the season affords.

It is open every day in the week till six o'clock in the evening, and four hours later on Saturday.

Erected at an expense of £30.000, is an immense pile of building, with three double porticoes. Its dimensions are 144 feet by 113. It contains in the basement story,

[Page 32] rooms for confinement and extensive cellaring; and above these offices for the magistrates, &c. with a large room used as a market. Ascending the stair case, we come to a spacious apartment for the petty sessions, with others for private business , and a room for the commissioners of the town. The upper story contains a handsome assembly room.

Great improvements have been effected in order to improve the access: many small houses are removed and obstructions takes away, so that the building has now an open and unconfined situation.

Is held at the King and Queen Inn, Marlborough-place, every Thursday, where the several species of grain are disposed of by sample according to the custom of the place.

Is held on the Beach, South of the Grand Junction Parade, and is supplied from the boats immediately on their landing. Those fishes which are most abundant have been before mentioned, and they are sold either wholesale or retail at moderate prices.